3 Pieces of Equipment You Should NEVER Use
#1: Hang on the Back (HOB) Overflow Boxes
HOB overflow boxes came about so people with non reef-ready tanks (tanks that are not drilled) could use a sump. HOB overflows work by creating a syphon to draw water over the top of your tank and then down into your sump. When the syphon breaks, then your return pump in your sump pumps all the water in your sump into your tank, causing an overflow.
Many people drill me for saying HOB overflows are bad because they assert that when HOB overflows are setup properly, then they are fail safe. Setting them up properly requires buying extra pumps and modifying the overflow, which is like buying a new car and the salesman says, “to make sure it runs right, you have to bang on the hood twice, turn the key just right, then check under the hood every other day” Who would buy that car? Not me.
Lots of people have stories about HOB overflows that have run fine for years, which is great. I also have several friends who had HOB overflows which were professionally installed, and they all had several floods each. They don’t have any floods anymore because they switched to a drilled, reef-ready tank. Just because you can play with fire and not get burned, doesn’t mean you should keep playing with fire.
#2: Canister Filters
Canister filters are great for freshwater setups, not for saltwater tanks. Unless they are cleaned regularly (like weekly, EVERY week), then these canisters become nitrate factories and cause more problems then they are worth. Maybe you reef junkies would be up for that kind of work, but if you are a reef junkie, then you are going to have a sump and won’t need a canister filter anyway.
#3 Tap Water
Yes, its paid for, but if you use it, you’ll pay for it down the road. Tap water is full of all kinds of nasty stuff we can’t see with our eyes – metals, chorine, rust, sediments, etc. Using straight tap water introduces a whole bunch of things that will either harm (and probably kill) your fish, or create a huge food source for nuisance algae. There are declorinators that condition tap water to an extent, but make it easy on yourself. Use ONLY RO/DI water in your tank.
Browse the Store! Questions?
Mark,
Help me please, I have a 55 gallon reef set up that has been running now for 5 months. Everything has looked great up until about 1 week ago. My corals have started to die on me. The fish and inverts are fine. But the corals are starting to drop like flies. My PH is at 8.0, Nitrites are at 0, Nitrates are 0, Alkalinity is a bit on the low side, the tank temperature is at 80 degrees. I do water changes of about 5 gallons per week. I run a Reef Octoput protein skimmer, with a Eshopps 20 gallon sump. I have had both bio balls and the ceramic noodles in the sump – I have since taken the bio balls out but left the noodles in. I have Chemi-pure in there along with a bag of charcoal. I feed the tank Reef Essentials, Iodine and Kalkwasser on a weekly basis. The fish and corals eat frozen brine shrimp and plankton on a daily basis. I am at a loss as to what has happened. Any help or suggestions on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.
Good Morning Mark and hiya Linda:
I’m a novice when it comes to reef keeping and MrSaltwatertanktv is a awsome spot to broaden your knoweldge on reef keeping. This website has many different types of information available to view. and learn from. Personally speaking after I viewed all of MrSaltwatertanktv videos I grew as a reefer. Linda the questions I asked myself when I experinced the dieing phase of reef keeping were the following.
What are the needs of my coral?
a. nutrition – lighting or hand feeding
b.lighting – too bright, not enough, Do I need to replace my bulbs?
c.water movement – enough current? too much?
d- Parameters alkalinity, calicum, etc
e.water- are you using ROwater or tap water?
—These were some of my questions I went put through my head when I had my corals die. I learned alot from MrSaltwatertanktv and you will too. I also would urge you if your new to reefing, stock up some literature and visit some websites like wetwebmedia, reefcentral and ofcourse Mrsaltwatertanktv.
Linda, I hope this helped even alittle and good luck. patience is key in the hobby.
Thank you Mark forallowing me a palce to share what I learned from MrSaltwatertanktv, keep up the great work.
Thanks Frankie.
I know this wasn’t quite the place to leave my comment but I couldn’t find another area. I really am not totally new to reef keeping. I had this tank set up for amost 5 years close to 15 years ago. I lost my animals at that time because I had gone away for the weekend, only to come home and find that the air conditioner had quit working and the tank had way over heated.
I need to tell you that what I started with originally before the sump was a TOM aquatics filtration system. I liked the ease of the set up, but didn’t like the fact that the protein skimmer was way too small. So I decided to go to a proper sump and the Reef Octopus skimmer instead. I kept the overflow box from the TOM set up because it has a venturi stop on the box that shuts the system down if the power goes off so the sump won’t overflow and when the power comes back on it self primes and starts flowing again.
I then plumbed the hoses to the new sump and kept the same pump, it pumps at 700 gph. I am running 4 Koralia powerheads (2 at each end – at the surface) to push the water into the overflow box.
My lighting is the AquaticLife T5 HO at 48″. My lighting was set from day one at the recomended times for the 10,00K and blue actinic. I was told the blue LED’s wouldn’t matter.
I have been buying the same brand of distilled water from the same place since day one. The other reefer I work with has been using the same water and she has no issues.
Thank you for the recomendation on other helpful sites for gaining even more knowledge it is greatly appreciated; and just to let you know, I do have books on reefing but they are all more than 15 years old and I have found myself that in this length of time, things have changed alot with the husbandry.
I USE TAP WATER!
And I’ve been using it for over 6 months… There is nothing wrong with my tank!
But I DO understand the problems. And i’m working on buying a ro/di system.
Cheers,
I use my tap water because I live in the country and we draw water from a well, which is filtered several times so it is almost pure. 🙂 Lucky me right?
Alex…well water can be very pure, or very dirty so make sure your TDS is in line. Here in Texas, people on well water sometimes have TDS up to 400! And if it rains enough, the water can get contaminated with run-off. Of course you’d never know if the water was contaminated till something went wrong…like fish/corals dying.
I have a 55 gal reef tank and I’m having a brown algae problem, I have about 10 hermit crabs and 1 banded coral shrimp as my cleaning crew, what else can I get to help me out?
I filter my tap water using a TAP water filter from API and have been very happy with it. Do you think I should also add something like API Stress Coat also. My tank is doing very well and my fish don’t seem stressed. I live in an apartment so I can’t install a permanent RO/DI filter system. By the way, I have a Lifereef overflow and it has performed flawlessly. The builder states he has never had one fail and has been making them and selling them since 1985.
I have a new 75 gal tank that I bought 4 years ago and I just found out I can’t drill it (tank has warning labels on bottom). So I had no choice but to buy a overflow box (mounted on the side of tank) with two drains leading out working along with a small pump to provide syphoning. My 30 gal. sump has no overflow problems when power goes out. Is there any type of switch with a float or something else out in the market that would shut off power to the return pump to prevent overflow of the main tank if the overflow box were to fail?
DAvid…sure…a tank controller with a water on floor sensor would do the trick.
Of course for the cost of it, you could buy a drilled tank! 😀
I have a canister filter and i use tap water with water conditioner to refill my tank after water changes. I clean my filter twice a month or more and no problems yet. I do have a fish only aquarium with a few inverts to clean up the tank though. I’m not really into the reef setups.
Hi Mark,
I’m looking to build a sump for my 55 gal tank and had a couple questions. We started out keeping freshwater fauna and flora but after a short time we decided salt was the way to go. One, my tank is not drilled. Aside from dropping the water level considerably and putting holes in the tank I wouldn’t have a choice but to use an overflow box or a DIY PVC overflow. Aside, I do feel comfortable making holes. I have experience with cutting and putting holes in glass, but would the possibility of introducing glass particles and cutting media to the tank make this a no-no? If I were to do this would I need to transfer all tank contents over to a holding tank first, even my rock and sand? Two, I’m planning on using a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium as my sump but a good bit of my research is conflicting. My current plan is to drain the tank into the first stage having a skimmer, then flow to a refugium second stage with macro algae and a deep coarse to fine sand bed, and then a third stage for the return pump and heater. Does this sound like a decent idea?
Thanks for your time!
Chris
To all who have questions about an HOB overflow box and worried that they are reliable, go to Lifereef.com, the guys name is Jeff, he builds the best. He is in the Denver area and ships all over. I have one of his overflow boxes on my aquarium and have had it on for over a year and I haven’t looked back. I shut off my system daily for feeding or maintenance and it has never lost it suction. He claims they won’t and they don’t. I am super happy with mine and you won’t go wrong. If you ask him anything, he will graciously answer all of your questions and concerns. When I take it off to clean it, it starts right up, just doesn’t fail. Doesn’t allow the bubble to stay in the overflow tube, it is just simply the best. Check him out. You won’t be sorry.
I have been looking into a hob overflow because I have a 125 that I want to use for a marine tank but i found out it was tempered. My plan is to mount a washing machine warning system on the tank. It is a simple continuity sensor that if the two prongs contact water it kills the power to the outlet on the unit. This way should I loose siphon and I am not home it will just shut off the pump in the sump.
Anyone have any ideas on this? I dont see a reason it wont work but I am still learning here.
chris, if you want a very good hob overflow, the perfect one that I have been using for years, contact a guy by the name of Jeff, with Lifereef systems in Denver, Colorado. Jeff says that his overflows have never failed. One of the experts I had talked to said that they were the best and after I purchased it and now have used it for over two years, I will swear by them. I have shut my system off numerous, numerous times for maintenance, feeding of corals, etc. and it has never failed when I powered it back up. It won’t lose suction unless you pull the u tube out to clean it. It is easy to start back up, it is the next best thing if you can’t drill the tank. It is wonderful. He is at lifereefsystems .com. I found him just by happen chance by reading some forums and it was the best discovery I have made.
Hello Mark, i have a new 60 gallon saltwater tank its about 6,5 weeks old no corals just live rocks,sand. My problem is PH its 7.8-8.0 never goes higher even i did my first water change its still the same. My question is, is that normal for a new tank or i should do something about it? Thanks
I would add check valves to that list
Check valves have their place. I use them for drain lines that are directly plumbed into a drain line (think sink drain). The check valve will prevent a sewage backup getting into the tank.
I don’t like check valves on return lines to the tank though.
This article is correct to an extent. However I am a saltwater junkie and have no problem using tap water. You can use tap water instead of RO/DI water. I condition the tap water first before putting it in the tank and during water changes I mix the oceanmix salt in a large bucket with the conditioned water before placing it in the tank. I let it all dissolve first and aerate it. I do not add any fish until I know my water level readings are perfect. I have never had any problems using the method with tap water. My levels are always consistent when testing water. I have never even experienced any problems down the road. I use a filter canister filteration system on my 37 gallon tank and never have any problems with it. You do not have to change the filters on a weekly basis either. I have a canister filteration system designed for saltwater tanks and never have any build up of impurities. You just have to do your research and know what you are doing first before attempting this way of reef set up for your tank. I do not need a sump pump for my set up. I will add one later down the road because they are beneficial for reef tanks. If you are using a canister filteration system do not use live sand. Live sand will cause clogging problems in your canister filter. It is best to use live crushed coral with this method of setup that I am doing. That is primarily why I have no issues using these methods. I do not have to go with an overflow hob system. If you are having problems getting your PH levels to go up or decrease you can buy a PH powder that is designed to increase your PH levels or decrease your PH levels. Choose PH up or PH down that you can get at your local aquarium store, but make sure it is for saltwater only. I go this method of setup because it was less in cost for me though I am a saltwater junkie and saltwater junkies get picky on the correct way of set up, but mine works too if done right 🙂
30 years ago i filled my 200 gal tank with tapwater, no problems, i still top up with tap water, buying ro water is just another way to get the novices to spend money, ive also never used a skimmer, dont believe all you are told
I love your site! I am guilty of 2 out of 3.
1. Canister Filter – I have been running a Fluval canister with Seachem Matrix and Purigen on my heavily stocked 75g FOWLR. I clean it once a month and have not encountered any issues since starting the tank in 2011.
2. Tap Water – I started my tank with tap water treated with Prime and Seagel. On a few occasions, I have used tap, treated with Prime of course, for top offs and/or water change and have not had issues.
My tank ran great and all my fish were happy. Then I added a few soft corals. They did not look good. Kept doing water changes. No change. My well water was full of nitrates, over 180. Put in a kitchen sink RO system. Anemone and corals opened and flowed, fish were very active. Then things started going bad again. More water changes aswell as starving my little babies (dumbo me didnt think check the well water). The RO could not keep up, it apparently krepted back up from zero. Granted 20 is better than 180 for us but not the corals. So i now buy my water from a RO machine at the grocery store, .25 cents a gallon. Everyone,s happy again. Test your water source.
I love when people try to make this an exact science. What works for one person might not work for another and vise versa. Canisters and HOB are fine, if you maintain them. It’s foolish to think you can keep a successful reef tank with out daily maintenance
Thanks for sharing, we will definitely stay away from using this type of equipment.
I’m going to have to put my sump above my display then I guess, since I don’t want to risk my display tank being drilled and the HOB overflows are apparently so awful.
Isn’t it possible to use some kind of float switch on the siphon and sump pump? Float switch could shut off the sump pump if level gets too low, and another switch could start a pump that primes the siphon if the level gets too high on the display. Or am I imagining that such technology exists? :O
Mark, I just found your site and am really enjoying it! Question: I have a 46-gallon bowfront reef. it is my only tank. I am not in a position to empty it to install a proper sump system w/ a refugium. I am looking at a sump with an overflow box to replace my canister filter due to high nitrate levels. I am trading one of your “bad” items for another, but what other choices do I have?
I have used tap water, added chemical to remove toxic stuff and it has caused problems. This would happen when it was 11pm and pump would start running dry and I didn’t have water from LFS. I now keep jugs full of water from the lfs. Didnt lose any fish, but got hair all over my rocks and had to remove the rocks and scrub them to finally get it off.
We have an invert reef tank 65 gallon 2+ years no issues knock on wood….my question I was just given a 165 gallon drilled in bottom plexi….I’m scared its going to flood my living room have only done over the back filtration systems once had a wet dry…on current 65 canister……
Help what would you set up under the 165g I will only be doing three fish clown trigger powder blue tang emperor angle….no inverts in this one too tall deep (6 ft tall with cabinet/hood) I just bought a 175g canister with UV sterilizer (came with 80lbs of purple figi rock which is what i really wanted)….but can I use it with the drilled holes???? Do these ever flood in power outages or pure pressure on the closed system? I like closed system as it will be quieter and not much room for refuge/sump….thoughts please!!!ty
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This is typical zealot reefer banter. There are great examples of marine tanks running with somethings on this list. I myself run a canister with zero issue. This old testament approach is what discourages many people from involving themselves in this hobby. There is good and advice and then there is irrational nonsense.
Jorge…there are always outliers from the bell curve distribution of normal. I’ve heard of several people using canister filters w/out problems, just like as I wrote in the post that I’ve heard of people using HOB overflows without problems. If you look at the vast majority of people who use these types of equipment, their experiences are the opposite.
Case in point, there is a person who eats McDonald’s every day and doesn’t gain a pound and is healthy. Does that mean everyone can do the same? Certainly the statistics show otherwise.
Exceptions to the rule are just that – exceptions.
Who regulates what should and should not be used in an aquarium for you to say “rule” or to say, as your title states, to “never” use these products. Maybe suggesting pros and cons of these items would help hobbyist to make informed decisions instead of outright disavowing their reliability based on a few negative experiences. How about the hobbyists on a budget? When I started in this hobby I thought I’d have to hit the jackpot to even begin based on biased information like this. I thought: now I’ve got to get an expensive drilled tank, an ro unit, protein skimmer and sump before I even think about getting any fish. This is misleading and many experiences in this hobby are case-by-case whether positive or negative . There is “never” one right way to it.
Wow, that’s what I was searching for, what a material! present here at this webpage, thanks admin of this site.
I have just come across your page while looking for an overflow box being as I can not drill my tank. Do you still think a overflow box is something you should never use ? If so if for what ever reason I can not drill my tank what do you suggest ?
I use both a canister filter and tap water that’s conditioned for chlorine & chloramine.
I clean my canister filter every month and create my own salt water.
My tank is fine. In fact, my clowns spawn every 2 weeks and my corals are thriving.
In my experience the majority of “tank problems” come down to poor initial cycling of the water, over stocking fish (and too quickly), over feeding and poor lighting investment. I don’t even have a skimmer..
I do agree with overflow boxes though in general, but there are overflows that only activate the siphon when water, you know, overflows. Otherwise it sits in the overflow which OK isn’t great for still water, but the tank certainly doesn’t flood.
Hey
I was wondering what do overflow boxes are for and if you NEED one. I was also wondering on average how easy are saltwater tanks to care for.
Thanks for any help
I feel dumb now I just reread neber one never mind just answer the second question please
I’d say if you want to use a HOB overflow, then educate yourself on how they really work and build your own. Mechanically, it isn’t possible for the siphon to break on a HOB overflow if built properly. I use them all the time, since I use generic 40 gallon breeders in my setups, and good luck drilling those. They are fairly simple to make (and cheap, like sub-10$ for one sized for a 40 gallon). As far as using tap water, again, education is your friend. Some cities have really fantastic tap water, and some I wouldn’t let my neighbor’s annoying, bitey dog drink.
I JUST BOUGHT A 45 GALLON TANK AND STAND AND WET DRY
THE TANK I FOUND OUT IS TEMPERRRED GLASS SO IT CANNOY BE DRILLED
I ALSO HAVE A HOB I TRIED ALL NIGHT TO PRIME IT BUT IT WONT WORK
IS THERE ANOTHER WAY TO DO IT MAYBE A MORE EXPENSIVE WAY
Great post! Have nice day ! 🙂 uxesf
Hello,I check your blog named “3 Pieces of Equipment You Should NEVER Use – Mr. Saltwater Tank” like every week.Your story-telling style is witty, keep it up! And you can look our website about proxy free list.
I think a blog should be where someone can make a statement and other readers can believe or not. The internet is the wild, wild, west. There are always a few responders that want to continually force their beliefs on others. Just make your counter statement and let the Wild West decide on their own with common sense, which there is less of this day and age. Until there is real science behind the aquarium hobby, like evaluating protein skimmers, for example, everything is subjective. Thanks Mark for your time
Such bad advice, I’ve run DIY Overflow on my reef now for like ever… never once had an overflow problem, if the siphon breaks then my tank will not overfow.. there’s not enough water to do so… you must set up your tank properly with what you plan to use.. My tank can not overfow no matter what.. my water ratios are set to make that possible. I think telling people to not use these such things is bad advice and you of all people shouldn’t be doling out such bad advice…. Your heading should read “Things I don’t know how to use on a reef tank”
If any of you new reefers want to know some cool DIY advice with full instructions go to Joey Mullen aka King Of DIY on Youtube. 🙂 Happy Fish Keeping !!!
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