The 3 Most Common Objections I Get to RODI Water (With Answers To Each)


Of all the RODI questions I get, these are the 3 most common. Β And here’s what I have to say to each of them.

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Comments for this article (70)

  • Jon says:

    Didn’t read all comments so I dont know if someone said this, but there are a handful of auto shutoffs that are great for rodi filters so if you forget to shut it off… or fall asleep like i did (on a third floor of an apartment building) you arent screwed… The one I have is all pressure, no electricity and works great on both of my rodi, one for my fish only at the office, and one for my reef at home! http://www.aquadirect.com/store/product.php?productid=20908&cat=0&page=1

  • Very true Jon. I have Bulk Reef Supply’s Auto shut off kit on my RODI unit. No more floods.

  • Wes says:

    I’ve considered purchasing a unit, BUT I’ve got two VERY good reasons not to: 1) my city charges for water usage by the gallon and then they charge by the gallon for sewage ($$$$). Because of this, the waste water would kill my participation in the hobby especially at a usual 4:1 rate of waste to usable. 2) my LFS is about 10 minutes from my job and they sell RO/DI for .25 a gallon. I buy 30 gallons once a month for $7.50 and that keeps me good for WC’s as well as ATO, kalk, and water testing. Regardless of my reasons, great vid Mark and keep up the great work.

  • Kyle says:

    I agree with wes, my area charges by the gallon. RODI water wastes so much I just can’t afford to have an RODI unit.

  • Wes and Kyle…you can add a second RO membrane to your system and cut your waste by 50%.

  • Rob burton says:

    Hi,

    How often to you change you DI resin?

  • Brian Davis says:

    Rob, that depends on your water source. My buddy has to change his BRS DI resin cartridge after every batch he makes from his well water supply, lol. What’s funnier is it’s still cheaper for him to do this than it is to be paying for city water and sewer service! However, my system is a BRS 5-stage plus with dual DI and my resin has barely and noticeable color change and is going strong for 13 months now. It’s just about time for me to change out my pre-RO filters though after this much time. My water source is pretty clean, but it’s not free like Dan’s well (:

    So again, it depends (;

  • Rob burton says:

    Oh cool! I’ve had my 4 stage RO unit for around 3 months now and my tds is creeping up (8) the tds from my tap is 340. My DI stage is on the top of the RO membrane and I heard it’s best to bin it and get a 10″ vertical type? Does buckeye field supply deliver to the UK?

  • Matt says:

    Rob…. If they don’t you may well find it cheaper to get an add on from the UK supplier RO-Man with a pre-filled DI cartridge… Will probably cost you a lot less than importing from the US!

    It is indeed better to use a vertical pod instead of a horizontal chamber… The vertical pod is far more efficient at the job and will save you a lot of cash in the long run… πŸ˜‰

    Hope that helps πŸ™‚

  • Rob burton says:

    Cheers guys πŸ™‚

  • Nick Musuraca says:

    Hey Mark,
    I hope being a “Newbie” is not driving you nuts; but have more questions.
    When you talk about adding stages to a RO/DI unit, which ones do you
    normally add, and in what order ( RO-DI-RO-DI-RO-DI) ?
    When does it become redundant ?
    If your going to store hose water in 55 gal. drums for future RO/DI use,
    does it need some kind of pre-filter and air movement ?
    Nick…………

  • Matt says:

    Mark… Just wondering what micron pre filter your using these days… I’m having a head scratcher between 5 micron or 1 micron…

    Nick – Pre-filters go before the Membrane if your adding to your system… DI (use vertical ‘pods’ not horizontal ones ‘chambers’) should be after the membrane and one is fine or two if you want to be extra cautious… You’d need a pair of dual incoming/outgoing inline TDS if you go down this road… πŸ˜‰

  • Darryl Thole says:

    Good Grief! I just got my new setup running. The TDS of the tap water going in is 490. Wow what great quality tap water! πŸ™

  • Matt Allen says:

    490?!? Are you sure your household plumbing isn’t in a loop ??!? lol πŸ˜€

    At that rate you want to flush your membrane more often than most… At those levels you’ll be changing filters more often but regular membrane flushing will keep it good and clean for a long time to come! πŸ™‚

  • 490?! Holy cow! That’s super high and as Matt said you’ll have to replace filters with increased frequency. A double DI bed would probably be a good choice for you.

  • Brian Davis says:

    Darryl, you sure you’re on City? Lol, just teasing. Read my comment above about my friend Dan lol. +1 what Mark says on Dual DI. I have Dual DI and barely 1 TDS going in (: good thing my plus one unit came wig free 2nd DI cause I didn’t need to front money for it. I’ll find out what Dan’s TDS is going in just for fun (: Good luck Bro!

    B-

  • Lisa says:

    I will never use tap water again if I can help it, even for my freshwater tank. I lost 25 fish, including my very favorite, in a tank disaster caused by contaminated tap water. I did a change and BAM….dead, dead, dead…they were dropping like flies by the time I’d finished filling, one after the other. Only reason some survived was that I had a QT tank I hadn’t changed the water it yet. That was horrible. RO/DI for me, baby!

  • Rob says:

    What is the best way to store RODI water? How long can it be stored? Which types of storage containers are good…and which are not?

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